Wiksten Haori Jacket (Modified)

Like many of my projects, I knew that I wanted to make this garment the first time we received the pattern at Thread.  But, like many of my projects, I knew that I had to find the perfect material to make it in.  Enter Flannel!  I'm not as big a fan of flannel like I used to be.  When I was a teenager I was always on the search for the perfect flannel shirt in stores, but as I've gotten older and my style has changed and developed, I've slowly shied away from the flannel shirt and replaced it with more tailored, classic pieces.  But there's just something about a plaid flannel print. Perhaps it's the combination of colors and lines in a geometric pattern.  Details have always been an inspiration to me.  So when we got a beautiful B&W and red plaid flannel in the store I knew that I wanted to somehow incorporate it into a garment for myself.

Enter the Wiksten Haori Jacket!  A simple, oversized jacket with boxy construction.  Perfect for throwing on over your favorite t-shirt and jeans combo to look chic and put together for an occasion.  And I had my heart set on making it out of this flannel.  Crazy, I know for the girl who isn't the biggest fan of a flannel shirt anymore.  But I knew that I could always throw this over my black jeans and black shirts, my favorite black dress, etc.  It was the perfect piece for my ever-expanding black wardrobe.  It was that extra element of pizzaz to dress up an otherwise plain outfit.

Project Details:

• Size Made: Large, Long Length
• Main Fabric: 4 yds cotton flannel
• Scraps of black brussels washer linen to line pockets
• Pattern: Wiksten Women's Haori Jacket

I made a few modifications to the pattern because I didn't want to line this jacket.  Since I wasn't lining this jacket I wanted to finish the seams, so I chose a classic french seam.  I found a good tutorial for French Seams here, in case you are interested.  The finished seam allowance turned out to be a 5/8" instead of the 3/8" seam that the pattern originally called for.  But due to the oversized nature of the garment, this wasn't an issue with the overall fit of the garment.

I also had to add a hem to the garment since I wasn't inserting a lining.  To do this I simply turned up a hem 1/4" then another 1".  I took a 1 1/4" seam on the sides of the collar Pieces to accommodate for this alteration.  I did the same hem for the sleeves.  This actually worked out perfect for the sleeve as I can still wear them rolled down and the edge of the sleeve still hits my wrist.

If you do choose to modify this pattern the way I did, be sure that you follow the yardage requirements for the lining instead of the main fabric yardage of the jacket.  Also, make sure that when you're cutting out your sleeve pattern, you are using the main sleeve pattern piece and not the lining sleeve pattern piece which is slightly shorter. 

Overall this pattern is a good beginner pattern, whether you choose to line the jacket or not.  I found the instructions to be well written and straightforward.  I wouldn't recommend making this particular garment with a plaid material at first in you are new to sewing.  I didn't mind if some of the plaids didn't match on this particular garment, and it was good that I didn't because the don't all match!  Nevertheless I see this as an everyday garment for me.  I will probably be wearing this nonstop at the store because it's comfortable, effortless, and stylish.  So if you've never made a jacket before and want to try something beginner friendly I would definitely recommend this pattern.  I could definitly see myself making another version of this jacket out of a plain black material as well.  Or perhaps a neutral linen color for spring?  In short, this is my new go to basic and I can't wait to wear it again and again!